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Our adventure Apprehend Poachers In Paiche National Reserve Pacaya Samiria
Most of you know that the Amazon is by far the world's largest, with more water freshwater discharge than the next six largest rivers combined, but to appreciate the volume of water, you should join us will amount to Dawn on the Amazon.
Tucked tight to shore off the current three-quarter throttle, we see the river life unfold as it has for centuries, the inhabitants Natives who live a subsistence life in harmony with their environment.
We see most people still live as their ancestors, in houses built of straw roof on stilts to stay above the flood, without doors or windows, often with walls, strips of bark for soft floors. A machete, a bucket, and some pots and pans are made only their instruments.
Men and women work together caring for a piece of cassava, a grove of banana trees, with a little lemon, lime, orange, papaya, mango, cashew, cocoa or fruit and other delicious exotic jungle that most of you probably have not heard much less prove, as zapote, apricot, Ubilla, guava, shimbillo, macambira, copoazu caimito and camu camu.
The typical mode of transportation is still the bench canoe, and almost always a fisherman is in aiming your work network, or an individual or family are Boating. Women wash clothes in the river, carrying water in buckets to their homes, cook over open fires, and the babies nurse. Children run up and down the bank waving and yelling at us.
My two favorite guides, Edson and Bob, come back soon to report to our clients that our most important geographic landmark, the confluence of the Ucayali and Maranon is right around the corner. Cameras in hand, move all to the bow of the boat to record our passage by the start of the majestic Amazon River. Our course is the Ucayali fork, going left upstream. The north bank of the Ucayali River is the southern boundary of the National Reserve Pacaya Samiria (PSNR).
It is difficult to understand that the reserve is larger than some countries without cruise as input from a distance, the Pacaya River. After passing miles of jungle, interspersed with rice planted in the flood plain and peanut planted in sandy soil above the rice, and spent many boats and villages, possibly more than five million hectares begins to have meaning.
When Dawn in the Amazon turns up the Pacaya River to get into a big swampy environments on earth. Within ten minutes is like being in another world. We Paiche giant near the opening of a lake. Paiche are the largest freshwater fish with scales. They are unusual for its size and because they have lungs. It is common to find them two meters long and weighing 125 pounds, when it surfaces to breathe.
Edson Beto and rush to 84 years old "grandma" Eileen, pointing to make sure she sees the cloud of parakeets, I think there are hundreds, soon followed by eight to ten large parrots. Before leaving Iquitos Eileen told us she hoped to see macaws in nature. She saw a worth of living along the river parrots Pacaya.
When we came across this stretch of river a month ago, we saw fifty laziness, this time only one; the curious ebb and flow of wildlife. We know that birds and monkeys easily move to a new tree laden with ripe fruit, but it is hard to imagine that sloth moving so slowly through the jungle to a new food source.
Hawks are hunting. Horned Screamers honk their tops, called the liquid, mixed flocks Snow and Great Egrets, cormorants, ducks and herons, fly or fish near the boat slip as upstream. But our unique adventure in the PSNR is not to see the seven species monkeys, or the hundreds of species of birds and dozens of pink dolphins, or iguanas, alligators, capybaras, or laziness. We expect to observe them when entered the reservation. Our adventure with the primate is more interesting and dangerous of all, Homo sapiens.
The ranger responsible for the checkpoint in the second place, Joseph immediately informs us that there is an emergency. Six hunters paiche were seen hiding in a lake 20 minutes upstream. With only four guards in the area, He asks for our help. A few years ago, the reputation of everyone in the village when hunters were spotted Bretana paiche that town killed three guards who tried to confiscate their nets and canoes. Because of this crime, the village is considered dangerous and our boats do not stop at Bretana.
Joseph wants me to go with them, but with six people on board, I believe my first responsibility is to them. I ask Bob if he would go with the Rangers and take our handheld VHF radio to contact Dawn on Amazonia. He reluctantly agrees, but is not satisfied with these unexpected events. He knows the story of the murdered guards like me.
Joseph has a plan. The hunters have set up camp near a creek that connects the biggest lake in the River Yarina PSNR. This flow is too small to Dawn on the Amazon III to ranger tow the boat behind us, and when we reached the stream and paddle guards Beto up the stream to the camp. Hunters hear our boat to go further and believe that are safe.
We continue to block the escape route is only possible, if necessary ram their boats and to prevent their escape, however, we can. Bob takes handheld radio to maintain communication and one of our cameras to record the evidence.
Bob tells the story:. "It was hard to get through the chain because it was choked with aquatic vegetation we had to push pole through the grass, water and pushing out the canoes and boats Jon. It took more than an hour to get to camp. I noticed vultures pecking at a bunch of fish heads and carcasses.
"I saw the infractories, packing their gear to escape. Jose jumped ship to meet them. I heard the conversation getting louder and louder. The leader said they were just trying to have a system to survive. Joseph argued it's easy to survive without poaching. The other infractories whispered suspiciously while getting their machetes.
"The rest of the guards saw the threat and jumped off the boats as a hunter with a machete attacked Jose, aiming a deadly blow to the back of your neck. Someone shouted a warning and Joseph turned in time to catch the killer tried to fist's.
"As they struggled for the knife, the hunter cried:" Here we go kill each other. "John fought the knife away and threw it into the water. The other rangers formed a circle around Joseph and attempted murder in ground fighting.
"The other hunters were closing in threatening with their machetes, when I screamed on the radio, "Officina, Officina base, base, we have problems. Send us the other Rangers, send help, send help, eventually. "
"Everyone has heard the answer," Help is on its way. Rangers on the road. Keep us informed more. "That was all it took to take the fight out of hunters. They laid down their knives. That's when I get back, the radio:" It's more. We're OK. Negotiations have already begun without the necessary reinforcements, eventually. "
"I could not understand these negotiations. Infractories always spoke as if they had done nothing wrong, how wrong we were bothering them. The man who saw the infractories Jose and informed of the location work for guards, but lives in the village.
The leader of infractories shook her finger at him as he threatened: "You are the person that they know we're here! Our problem is your fault! Make sure I do not see you tomorrow … "
"They were allowed to keep their nets, canoes, spears, and half of paiche. They had eight giant tortoises and turtles four average size in a bag. Joseph ordered the release of the turtles. They refused. They argued that once were allowed to keep half paiche, they should be allowed to keep half of the turtles. After much discussion, all turtles were released.
"They were absolutely positive that they should be allowed to stay and fish as the honest fishermen. They argued for an hour with Joseph, but Joseph was insisting so they leave. They refused to go.
"Joseph explained that every ranger in the reserve has been notified by radio of their activities and would be accompanied and monitored every fifty kilometers to the entrance. Still, they argued so hard to stay that Joseph became suspicious and a search was conducted around the perimeter of the camp.
"One of the guards discovered a newly killed, fifty pounds paiche covered with leaves. They had the courage to argue that half of the fish should also be theirs, but even his patience was running out of Joseph, and he ordered them to leave immediately.
"As we began paddling downstream, the leader turned and threatened: "This is not the end of it. It will not stay that way." Joseph responded with a threat of his own, "I I can not believe you would be stupid enough to cause more problems now that every ranger knows your name, where you and your family live, and what you did. "
It is quite possible that Bob's quick thinking with our VHF radio saved the lives of all the guards, as well as yours. The guards rewarded with a paiche big slab of fresh. He was kind enough to share with everyone aboard the Dawn on the Amazon III. We all agree that paiche made some of the best ceviche that already ate, and nobody ever ate fish better than fresh fillets of paiche fried in palm oil.
I've been thinking about men willing to kill or be killed by a fish, and thinking of a punishment system that allows a killer tried to escape. I remember near Mayo, Florida, about thirty-five years ago, three game guards were killed in an old dirt road in the swamp. Many of the mothers of deer hunters in the city feared that the killers could be his children.
I have personally known hunters in Indiana. The hunters I know are never motivated by survival. In most cases, it is savagery, the belief that the law does not apply to them, and in some cases, laziness. What is the easiest, fastest to put meat on the table? If poachers our paiche be allowed to keep half of their catch? They should keep their spears, nets and canoes? These are hard questions for reflection as we continue our journey.
We are escorted by a pod of dolphins upstream of the river rose. They are protected by custom and legend. The people of Rio believes pink dolphins have powers supernatural is the worst kind of luck to harm one. They swim freely without fear of hunters.
In the third ranger station, we learned that nobody has played since signing the record book two months ago. This desert between the second and third seasons ranger Dawn seems to be the private preserve of the Amazon. It wonderful to have the opportunity to enjoy this experience of nature and is still more wonderful if you know how to value it.
Now if we can just catch the hunter who cut the Big Leaf Mahogany …
About the Author
Bill Grimes provides custom cruises on the upper Amazon River and its tributaries from Iquitos, Peru. For details, visit Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises at http://www.dawnontheamazon.com
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